Impactt Ltd » Consumers

Primark post-mortem?

MartinButtle — Tue, 24 Jun 2008 15:46:36 +0000

In response to last night’s BBC Panorama exposing child labour in Primark’s supply chain, the Guardian asks “Is this the end for Primark?” We think reports of Primark’s imminent demise are greatly exaggerated. There certainly didn’t seem to be any lull in business when Impactt went to see the protest organized by War on Want at the flagship store on Oxford Street yesterday.The programme was well researched and convincing, raising important points about outsourcing in supply chains. The BBC’s own site has seen a lively debate in response to the question ‘Is there a hidden cost to consumers’ addiction to low-cost fashion?’

Our main beef with the programme was its failure to give workers a voice. The only time any worker spoke was to confirm their age. We are therefore none the wiser about how workers (adults and children) felt about their situation. Whilst the conditions shown in the film were far from ideal, the people stitching the garments may well be dependent on their earnings from this work. Getting their view on how Primark could improve their lot would have been useful. It would certainly have make it harder for the Tirapur Export Association to release a statement alleging that the children captured on film were not actually working.

Hand embellishment of garments in India is almost invariably subcontracted to informal units or homeworkers, carrying the risk of child labour. We welcome the clear view Panorama gave us down these supply chains. The overwhelming public and consumer reaction to the film has been to urge companies to stay in and work with their suppliers and workers on these difficult issues. Criticism of Primark has been focused on the decision to ‘cut and run‘ rather than on the discovery of problems in the first place. Maybe it’s time to move on from denial and distancing towards a more grown-up approach of engagement and improvement.

GAP Responds to Child Labour Allegations with Pledge to Create ‘Sweatshop Free’ Labels

Jane Blacklock — Wed, 07 Nov 2007 10:21:04 +0000

GAP’s child labour expose of last week has focussed minds on the problem of subcontracting; when suppliers put some, or all, of the manufacturing out to a sub-supplier without the knowledge or consent of the customer. Yesterday’s Observer reported that GAP are looking at a twin approach to tackle both child labour and illicit subcontracting by developing a ‘sweatshop-free’ or ‘child labour free’ label and a tracking system which will allow consumers to directly track exactly where their products were made, using a new online service.

It appears that the labelling scheme may be based on the Rugmark model which monitors child labour in the carpet industry. The tracking may be similar to the Dutch initiative ‘Made-By’, who employ the use of distinctive blue buttons and an online tracking service to increase consumer visibility in retailers’ supply chains.

We welcome both these initiatives, but would urge GAP to prioritise equally the rehabilitation and education of children involved in the garment industry. I would prefer to buy a garment which was labelled child labour free, if I was certain that any children who had previously worked in the supply chain were happily in school and improving their life chances. Maybe GAP could consider sharing the grades and progress of former child workers to demonstrate a truly responsible approach to making the world a better place.

It has been a while

MartinButtle — Wed, 12 Sep 2007 16:30:27 +0000

But don’t worry we have been very busy! Not least with delivering babies, doing countless ethical audits across the world, and learning something about the way consumers think about ethical trade.

A consumer survey was published last week which found that many consumers do not believe fashion retailers’ claims on ethical sourcing. It also stated that the most important issue to consumers was whether or not there were underage or child workers making the products that they were buying.

The study, published by TNS Worldpanel Fashion, asked 7,000 people about the ethical credentials claimed by UK retailers. 45% said that they were sceptical. It suggested that older buyers (over 55) were more interested in ethical claims than those under the age of 25.

Our own experience shows that customers are pleasantly surprised to hear how much work certain fashion retailers are doing on ethics. More people are checking the labels for information. More people are becoming more discriminating in which claims they choose to believe.

Here at Impactt we welcome increased consumer interest. We welcome the exposes and the media coverage, but it would be great if retailers, brands, NGOs, unions and journalists could report more credible good news stories to customers – more stories to show that by working hard on these issues we can all make a difference to the lives of the people making the stuff we buy.